Noelle wearing the shuhe 裋褐 – a working class style of dress used for millennia. Still found in martial arts practice.
In the annals of Chinese history, clothing has always been a clear marker of one’s social status. While the imperial court and aristocrats draped themselves in luxurious silk and finely crafted robes, the common people – farmers, laborers, and peasants – wore simpler, more practical attire suited to their daily toil. Among the most notable of these traditional garments is the shuhe 裋褐, a rough, unadorned clothing associated with modest living.
The term shuhe 裋褐 directly translates to ‘coarse clothes’ or ‘rough garb,’ highlighting its utilitarian nature. Typically made from hemp or linen, shuhe 裋褐 was designed to withstand the rigors of manual labor, offering protection against the elements without the luxury or refinement of silk. In ancient times, particularly in early dynasties like the Zhou 周 dynasty (1046-256 BCE), Han 漢 dynasty (206 BCE-220 CE), and later, shuhe 裋褐 became symbolic of the lower classes, embodying the virtues of simplicity, frugality, and hard work.
The fibers used in shuhe 裋褐, such as hemp and linen, were abundant and easily accessible to rural communities. Hemp, in particular, was highly valued for its durability and breathability, making it an ideal fabric for clothing worn by those engaged in farming or construction. Though not as soft or decorative as silk, it was highly functional, drying quickly in humid conditions and providing protection during hot summers.
The ‘Midnight Thief’: Shuhe 裋褐 in the Dark
Interestingly, shuhe 裋褐 also took on a more covert role in the world of stealth and espionage. In ancient China, the iconic attire of the midnight thief, who operated under the cover of darkness, was often made of shuhe 裋褐. This version of shuhe 裋褐 was typically made of rough black silk, chosen not only for its lightness but for its silent movement. The coarse black silk was ideal for stealth operations, as it produced minimal noise and allowed for fluid, undetected movements.
Additionally, the fabric was highly practical for the night penetrator. It could dry quickly after crossing moats, rivers, or streams, making it particularly suited for those who needed to evade detection by moving through water. This balance between functionality and stealth made shuhe 裋褐 the perfect attire for individuals who operated in dangerous and covert missions, such as spies, reconnaissance scouts, or even thieves who specialized in nocturnal infiltration.
The midnight thief’s clothing, made from such material, draws a fascinating parallel between the humble garb of the commoner and the sophisticated requirements of those practicing the arts of stealth. While the general populace wore shuhe 裋褐 for work, these penetrators used its properties to silently navigate the shadowy world of espionage and survival in hostile environments.
The End for Shuhe 裋褐
During the Qing 清 dynasty (1644–1912), the new Manchu 滿族 rulers implemented strict policies to solidify their control over the Han 漢 Chinese population, including a forced change in clothing and hairstyle. The most infamous of these mandates was the requirement for Han 漢 men to adopt the queue 辮 hairstyle, which involved shaving the front of the head and braiding the remaining hair at the back. This was a significant departure from traditional Han 漢 hairstyles and was seen as a symbol of submission to the Manchu 滿族 rulers.
The dress code also shifted as the Qing 清 imposed Manchu-style 滿族 clothing, which differed from the loose, flowing robes of the Chinese elite and the shuhe 裋褐 of the general populace. Manchu 滿族 attire, especially for men, included tighter, more functional garments such as long robes with fitted sleeves, influenced by their nomadic and military background.
These changes were part of the Tonsure Decree 剃髮令, issued in 1645, which stated, “To keep your hair, you lose your head; to keep your head, you cut your hair.” The enforcement of this decree was often brutal, and many Han 漢 Chinese resisted, seeing it as a violation of their cultural identity. This mandate led to uprisings, including those by Ming 明 loyalists who refused to submit to the new Qing 清 rule. Eventually, though, the majority of the population was compelled to comply.
The Manchu 滿族 style of dress and hairstyle remained enforced throughout most of the Qing 清 period and became a significant cultural marker of the era.
